The dramatic, soaring cliffs of Cook’s Bay, Moorea, have been the backdrop for the rally this week; although at times they have been obscured as rainy weather coated them in clouds.
On Monday a very enjoyable morning was spent with three local women as they showed us how to make Tahitian headdresses and different ways to tie pareos. The results were very colourful and in Jaime’s case very amusing.
The first boats have arrived in Tahiti after a good trip from Nuku Hiva. Most of them took the opportunity to sample the delights of the Tuamotus, diving for pearls, snorkelling and meeting the locals. Many of them say this was “the highlight of the trip so far” and not to be missed. They even had three course takeaway dinners delivered to them on their boats!
Last night Paul, from Jackamy, celebrated his birthday in style at one of the ‘vans’ in the local car park.
So far Aspen, Bali Blue, Blue Magic, Jackamy, Natibou, Mercury Rising, Fugue, Miss Tippy, Island Kea, Peter Pan and Raylah have arrived. The rest of the fleet is expected over the next few days.
Strung like white sand jewels across the Pacific, the Tuamotus are a world apart. The 77 atolls, scattered like confetti on an ocean of ink, stretch 1500km northwest to southeast and 500km east to west. The closest islands are about 300km from Tahiti. Each coral atoll barely rises more than 6 feet above sea level and may be difficult to see from more than a mile or so offshore.
Rangiroa from the Air
The Tuamotus have always been a dangerous place for navigators and teh long remained in the shadow of the Society Islands. That has changed thanks to pearl cultivation, which has become acentral pillar of the Polynesian economy. The growth of pearl cultivation has reversed the outward migration of the population, which has grown from 11,793 to 15,846 people since 1983. There are 45 inhabited islands, ranging from those with a mere handful of occupants to Rangiroa, with a total population of 3016.
The Blue Water Rally fleet have begun to arrive into the spectacular Taihoe Bay in the Northern Marquesas, after a superb sail from the Galapagos Islands. It's been a fast sail this year, with the first six yachts completing the 3,000 nm passage in only 15 days, and reporting great sailing conditions, pushed along by favourable easterlies. Only in the last 24 hours have yachts been seeing a lack of wind and turning to the iron mainsail.
The boats which have arrived in the Marquesas are Natibou, Simanderal, Miss Tippy, Blue Magic, Jackamy, and Bionic Un. The crews got together at the Pearl Lodge Hotel for the first time since departing the Galapagos Islands, with the rally youngsters from Miss Tippy taking the opportunity to enjoy the swimming pool, whilst the adults compared notes about the crossing.
Our sailors are now feeling the remoteness of their adventure as they cross the Pacific. Here is an excerpt from the blog of an American yacht, Aspen, which joined the rally in Panama:
"S/V Aspen – April, 2010 – Log #36. Position: 04 degrees 18.0' S 108 degrees 20.0' W. Pacific Ocean
Just think of the giants of history that have crossed this mighty Pacific Ocean: Magellan, Cook, Darwin and Heyerdahl among many others. To sail upon the same waters as them is awe inspiring to say the least. Edmund Leo, Maria's dad, did exactly the same thing over 60 years ago when he was in the Navy and fought in the war. We are also following in his footsteps.
The yachts have all arrived in Papeete, with the exception of Scot Free, who has just left Nuku Hiva and is on her way to join us in Tahiti. The fleet looks very impressive dressed overall, with flags fluttering gaily and has attracted a lot of attention in the town.
The new pontoon has been a great success with the rally making the most of being either side of their new ‘village street’. It has been the place for daily chats, a boat jumble and a quiz and supper night, as well as giving easy access for the delights of the town.
Thursday, 06 May 2010 07:50 | By Tony Diment, Rally Director
Having arrived in the Marquesas Islands in mid April the rally has now moved on to the vast expanses of the Tuamotu atolls and is now due to converge on the capital of Tahiti and French Polynesia at Papeete.
It will be a busy time for the rally as they will be able to re-provision at the wonderful Papeete market (possibly the most colourful in the world) and at European-style hypermarkets and chandleries. There will of course be a rigorous social programme to accompany this activity.
After a week berthed to the bustling `Bounty Quay' right in the centre of Papeete, the beautiful Society Islands lie a short distance away. Moorea is the first of these islands and Cook's Bay will be the base for island-wide activities. Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa and Bora Bora will follow in close succession making the Polynesian experience complete by the 7th June when the rally will strike out for the Cook Islands and Tonga.
The Blue Water Rally has been officially welcomed to French Polynesia with a truly memorable day of Marquesan hospitality. In the morning, the children of Taiohoe Bay greeted the sailors with the traditional aoti neck garlands, before escorting them to trays of beautifully prepared fresh fruits from the island of Nuku Hiva. Mango, coconut, papaya, orange, corossol, carambol, goyave, and of course the famous sweet, juicy, and enormous pamplemouse.
The islanders also demonstrated traditional plant weaving skills, and gave out gifts of freshly woven bags, baskets, and headgear. Deputy Mayor, Mme Deborah Kimitete spoke of her town's pleasure in hosting the Blue Water fleet, and in particular for being the important landfall point after the longest single leg of the rally, the 3,200nm passage from the Galapagos Islands. Deborah acknowledged the benefits that cruising yachts brought to these distant islands, and in turn the Blue Water team thanked the people of Nuku Hiva for their continued warm welcome and support of the rally, now in its 14th year.
As the everlasting journey continues Sue on Camomile got out her quiz book and resurrected 'The Blue Water Question of Master Millionaire Challenge'. 10 boats took part with team names such as 'Sorry I haven't a crew' (Fai Tira) and 'The Briet Sparks' (Briet). Each boat was given the choice of 10 categories and had to choose 5 to answer questions on. We had a lot of fun and the winners were 'The Sea Vagabonds' (Lucy Alice) with 5 out of 5 so well done to them. Most boats scored between 2 and 3 1/2 and only 1 boat got 1 but we won't name names!
`Aqualuna' was the last Blue Water Rally yacht to leave Puerto Ayora yesterday and sadly as he did so, two yachts that had left 4 days earlier were returning to port with engine problems. Both `Moonshiner' and `Scot Free' have been forced to return; Moonshiner with no engine power at all and `Scot Free' with only a very limited amount of power to get back against light headwinds. Our agent in the Galapagos, Ricardo Arenas, is standing by to help them out when they arrive.
Meanwhile, the rest of the fleet are reaching 5 degrees South and are beginning to feel the South East Trades that will hopefully carry them to the Marquesas. Peter Pan (Halberg Rassy 46), one of the earlier departures on 23rd March, is already reporting steady South Easterly winds of 15 kts and is making 8kts.
Saturday, 22 May 2010 08:30 | 
By Richard Bolt
