Yet another gorgeous destination has entertained the rally for the past week. As all yachts left Savusavu, they had different itineraries in mind. A few of us, who were left behind for a couple of days, hired scooters or cars and sampled the delights of the interior of Vanua Levu. We visited a local village, Clarence and Yvonne’s fantastic Copra Plantation right at the edge of the beach; we travelled across the island to see the 3rd largest barrier reef in the world from the heights of Palmlea Farm. At Palmlea, Joe and Julie entertained us to a great lunch and showed us around their fabulous eco-property and goat farm which they have built themselves over the past 6 years; it really is worth a visit.
In Tonga, we are a day ahead of most of the western world. As our yachts have left Niue for a 48 hour sail, they find 3 days has past by the time they get here, as they have crossed the International Date Line. The rally all change their clocks at the same time. Consequently, Sandie, a guest on Blue Magic, enjoyed her birthday for 30 minutes, before the clocks were wound forward to the next day. So for those of you in yesterday, I can tell you the weather tomorrow is great; well in Tonga at least.
The dramatic, soaring cliffs of Cook’s Bay, Moorea, have been the backdrop for the rally this week; although at times they have been obscured as rainy weather coated them in clouds.
On Monday a very enjoyable morning was spent with three local women as they showed us how to make Tahitian headdresses and different ways to tie pareos. The results were very colourful and in Jaime’s case very amusing.
The first boats have arrived in Tahiti after a good trip from Nuku Hiva. Most of them took the opportunity to sample the delights of the Tuamotus, diving for pearls, snorkelling and meeting the locals. Many of them say this was “the highlight of the trip so far” and not to be missed. They even had three course takeaway dinners delivered to them on their boats!
Last night Paul, from Jackamy, celebrated his birthday in style at one of the ‘vans’ in the local car park.
So far Aspen, Bali Blue, Blue Magic, Jackamy, Natibou, Mercury Rising, Fugue, Miss Tippy, Island Kea, Peter Pan and Raylah have arrived. The rest of the fleet is expected over the next few days.
Strung like white sand jewels across the Pacific, the Tuamotus are a world apart. The 77 atolls, scattered like confetti on an ocean of ink, stretch 1500km northwest to southeast and 500km east to west. The closest islands are about 300km from Tahiti. Each coral atoll barely rises more than 6 feet above sea level and may be difficult to see from more than a mile or so offshore.
Rangiroa from the Air
The Tuamotus have always been a dangerous place for navigators and teh long remained in the shadow of the Society Islands. That has changed thanks to pearl cultivation, which has become acentral pillar of the Polynesian economy. The growth of pearl cultivation has reversed the outward migration of the population, which has grown from 11,793 to 15,846 people since 1983. There are 45 inhabited islands, ranging from those with a mere handful of occupants to Rangiroa, with a total population of 3016.
There are times in one’s voyage around the world when everyone says “Hey, this place is good!” Savusavu is very pretty, but there have been more spectacular locations en route. It is not rich and plush, but it has most of the necessities of life. It does not have a great marina, good yacht facilities, great amenities, beaches etc., but it pulses with life and good humour. You can feel it as you arrive at the Copra Shed and as you walk down the main street just beyond it. People smile and wish you “Bula!” (Welcome”) they are helpful in the shops, they carry bags and jerry cans for you and whether it is rain or shine, they are happy to see you. Yes, rally unanimously agrees “this place is good!”
For the past 2 weeks the rally have been carving their own particular wakes around the Society Islands of French Polynesia - to be accurate, they were amongst the "Isle Sous Les Vents" (the Leeward Islands) group. Having left the razzamatazz of the capital, Papeete, for the calm, beautiful, but touristy island of Moorea, they dragged themselves away to discover an archipelago of great variety. In all the main towns and villages, the French influence is clear to see, but not so far away, the locals still live a life of tradition and simplicity. Some yachts have travelled in groups for the fun and friendships, others have escaped to secluded bays for time on their own.
The yachts have all arrived in Papeete, with the exception of Scot Free, who has just left Nuku Hiva and is on her way to join us in Tahiti. The fleet looks very impressive dressed overall, with flags fluttering gaily and has attracted a lot of attention in the town.
The new pontoon has been a great success with the rally making the most of being either side of their new ‘village street’. It has been the place for daily chats, a boat jumble and a quiz and supper night, as well as giving easy access for the delights of the town.
Thursday, 06 May 2010 07:50 | By Tony Diment, Rally Director
Having arrived in the Marquesas Islands in mid April the rally has now moved on to the vast expanses of the Tuamotu atolls and is now due to converge on the capital of Tahiti and French Polynesia at Papeete.
It will be a busy time for the rally as they will be able to re-provision at the wonderful Papeete market (possibly the most colourful in the world) and at European-style hypermarkets and chandleries. There will of course be a rigorous social programme to accompany this activity.
After a week berthed to the bustling `Bounty Quay' right in the centre of Papeete, the beautiful Society Islands lie a short distance away. Moorea is the first of these islands and Cook's Bay will be the base for island-wide activities. Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa and Bora Bora will follow in close succession making the Polynesian experience complete by the 7th June when the rally will strike out for the Cook Islands and Tonga.
The Blue Water Rally has been officially welcomed to French Polynesia with a truly memorable day of Marquesan hospitality. In the morning, the children of Taiohoe Bay greeted the sailors with the traditional aoti neck garlands, before escorting them to trays of beautifully prepared fresh fruits from the island of Nuku Hiva. Mango, coconut, papaya, orange, corossol, carambol, goyave, and of course the famous sweet, juicy, and enormous pamplemouse.
The islanders also demonstrated traditional plant weaving skills, and gave out gifts of freshly woven bags, baskets, and headgear. Deputy Mayor, Mme Deborah Kimitete spoke of her town's pleasure in hosting the Blue Water fleet, and in particular for being the important landfall point after the longest single leg of the rally, the 3,200nm passage from the Galapagos Islands. Deborah acknowledged the benefits that cruising yachts brought to these distant islands, and in turn the Blue Water team thanked the people of Nuku Hiva for their continued warm welcome and support of the rally, now in its 14th year.
Thursday, 29 July 2010 16:54 | 
By Richard Bolt
