Strung like white sand jewels across the Pacific, the Tuamotus are a world apart. The 77 atolls, scattered like confetti on an ocean of ink, stretch 1500km northwest to southeast and 500km east to west. The closest islands are about 300km from Tahiti. Each coral atoll barely rises more than 6 feet above sea level and may be difficult to see from more than a mile or so offshore.
Rangiroa from the Air
The Tuamotus have always been a dangerous place for navigators and teh long remained in the shadow of the Society Islands. That has changed thanks to pearl cultivation, which has become acentral pillar of the Polynesian economy. The growth of pearl cultivation has reversed the outward migration of the population, which has grown from 11,793 to 15,846 people since 1983. There are 45 inhabited islands, ranging from those with a mere handful of occupants to Rangiroa, with a total population of 3016.
The Blue Water Rally fleet have begun to arrive into the spectacular Taihoe Bay in the Northern Marquesas, after a superb sail from the Galapagos Islands. It's been a fast sail this year, with the first six yachts completing the 3,000 nm passage in only 15 days, and reporting great sailing conditions, pushed along by favourable easterlies. Only in the last 24 hours have yachts been seeing a lack of wind and turning to the iron mainsail.
The boats which have arrived in the Marquesas are Natibou, Simanderal, Miss Tippy, Blue Magic, Jackamy, and Bionic Un. The crews got together at the Pearl Lodge Hotel for the first time since departing the Galapagos Islands, with the rally youngsters from Miss Tippy taking the opportunity to enjoy the swimming pool, whilst the adults compared notes about the crossing.
Our sailors are now feeling the remoteness of their adventure as they cross the Pacific. Here is an excerpt from the blog of an American yacht, Aspen, which joined the rally in Panama:
"S/V Aspen – April, 2010 – Log #36. Position: 04 degrees 18.0' S 108 degrees 20.0' W. Pacific Ocean
Just think of the giants of history that have crossed this mighty Pacific Ocean: Magellan, Cook, Darwin and Heyerdahl among many others. To sail upon the same waters as them is awe inspiring to say the least. Edmund Leo, Maria's dad, did exactly the same thing over 60 years ago when he was in the Navy and fought in the war. We are also following in his footsteps.
Sunday, 21 March 2010 22:27 | By Tony Diment, Rally Director
Confronted with some dramatic administrative problems in getting the cruises off the ground, the two Blue Water Rally cruises on `Daphne' and `Coral' were finally launched on Wednesday 17th March. Four days later the 50 rally participants returned to Puerto Ayora full of praises for how enjoyable everything turned out. Certainly Ian and Glenda (Lucy Alice) were full of praise and clearly stated that everything surpassed their expectations. This sentiment has been echoed throughout those that went on the excursions around the islands and although not cheap the trips were considered a `highlight' by those taking part.
Tuesday, 16 March 2010 22:26 | By Tony Diment, Rally Director
The whole rally turned out for Sunday lunch at Angermeyer Point over the weekend. Everyone enjoyed a relaxing and long afternoon enjoying a superb barbecue. This was followed by a short stroll to the nearby beach for swimming and water games.
The social pressure continues to mount over the next few days with the Rally briefing and dinner and a very special birthday looming for Captain Jeremy of `Chissel’.
The Blue Water Rally has been officially welcomed to French Polynesia with a truly memorable day of Marquesan hospitality. In the morning, the children of Taiohoe Bay greeted the sailors with the traditional aoti neck garlands, before escorting them to trays of beautifully prepared fresh fruits from the island of Nuku Hiva. Mango, coconut, papaya, orange, corossol, carambol, goyave, and of course the famous sweet, juicy, and enormous pamplemouse.
The islanders also demonstrated traditional plant weaving skills, and gave out gifts of freshly woven bags, baskets, and headgear. Deputy Mayor, Mme Deborah Kimitete spoke of her town's pleasure in hosting the Blue Water fleet, and in particular for being the important landfall point after the longest single leg of the rally, the 3,200nm passage from the Galapagos Islands. Deborah acknowledged the benefits that cruising yachts brought to these distant islands, and in turn the Blue Water team thanked the people of Nuku Hiva for their continued warm welcome and support of the rally, now in its 14th year.
As the everlasting journey continues Sue on Camomile got out her quiz book and resurrected 'The Blue Water Question of Master Millionaire Challenge'. 10 boats took part with team names such as 'Sorry I haven't a crew' (Fai Tira) and 'The Briet Sparks' (Briet). Each boat was given the choice of 10 categories and had to choose 5 to answer questions on. We had a lot of fun and the winners were 'The Sea Vagabonds' (Lucy Alice) with 5 out of 5 so well done to them. Most boats scored between 2 and 3 1/2 and only 1 boat got 1 but we won't name names!
`Aqualuna' was the last Blue Water Rally yacht to leave Puerto Ayora yesterday and sadly as he did so, two yachts that had left 4 days earlier were returning to port with engine problems. Both `Moonshiner' and `Scot Free' have been forced to return; Moonshiner with no engine power at all and `Scot Free' with only a very limited amount of power to get back against light headwinds. Our agent in the Galapagos, Ricardo Arenas, is standing by to help them out when they arrive.
Meanwhile, the rest of the fleet are reaching 5 degrees South and are beginning to feel the South East Trades that will hopefully carry them to the Marquesas. Peter Pan (Halberg Rassy 46), one of the earlier departures on 23rd March, is already reporting steady South Easterly winds of 15 kts and is making 8kts.
Tuesday, 16 March 2010 22:53 | By Tony Diment, Rally Director
All 80 participants in the Blue Water Rally attended the rally briefing and dinner at `Altair’ farm and restaurant which is tucked into the luxuriant slopes of the so called `highlands’ of Santa Cruz Island on Monday afternoon and evening.
Following the rally brief everyone had time to relax around the pool and as may be seen from our photos enjoy a cooling swim. This was followed by beautifully barbecued chicken straight from the farm. Ecuadorian Indians from the Andes played typical pan pipes,drums and guitar and produced a really exciting altmosphere.
Saturday, 13 March 2010 23:16 | By Tony Diment, Rally Director
Mercury Rising arrived in Puerto Ayora this morning with Adrian Pinnegar, Deane Harper and Phyllis Macay aboard. Two yachts are still to arrive : Lorrigray (delayed in Panama with steering problems) and Fugue. Many crews are already well into discovering the island of Santa Cruz, while others are attending to refueling, essential maintenance and trips to the market ahead of their 5 –day trips that start next week.
Saturday, 01 May 2010 09:41 | 
By Richard Bolt
